Ideally, puppies and kittens should stay with their mother and littermates until they are at least eight weeks of age.  This gives them the time needed to learn valuable lessons about how to be a well-socialized member of a group.

Unfortunately, circumstances do not always cooperate.  Puppies and kittens may be orphaned or otherwise separated from their mothers at a very young age.  In some cases, individuals can be introduced into another litter, and assuming that their new mother accepts them, they can continue almost as if nothing happened.  It is more common, however, for people to have to intervene.

Bottle raising puppies and kittens is not difficult, but it does take dedication and a lot of time.  Orphaned youngsters generally need to be fed by bottle until they are about four weeks old.  To do this properly, purchase several kitten or puppy nursing bottles as well as puppy or kitten milk replacer and plan to feed them every two to three hours from the time you wake until you go to sleep.  If they eat this frequently during the day, overnight feedings should not be necessary.

Young puppies and kittens also need stimulation in order to urinate and defecate.  Do this after each feeding by wiping their urogenital region and anus several times with a warm washcloth.  Then use the washcloth clean them up well.

Once they begin chewing on the nipple of the bottle (usually around 3-4 weeks of age), you can start offering pâté-style kitten food mixed with a little milk replacer.  Once they are eating well and drinking water from a bowl, you can discontinue bottle feeding.  Keep track of the animal’s weight to make sure they are thriving.  Any weight loss should immediately be reported to your veterinarian.

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Post image for Knowing what is Normal for your Pet

Part of being able to determine when an animal is sick or injured is knowing what is normal for that pet.  Owners should monitor their pet’s behavior daily and perform brief physical examinations monthly so they can recognize when something has changed. 

  • Run your hands over your pet’s body to feel for any new lumps or bumps that should be checked out by the veterinarian. Also, ruffle your pet’s fur and look at the skin for fleas and ticks, redness, scaling, etc.
  • Look at the color of your pet’s gums. Keep an eye out for dental disease or any masses in the mouth. 
  • Examine ears, eyes, nose, nails, feet and the anogenital region for anything unusual that may have developed since your last exam.
  • Weigh your pet monthly and record the information so you can pick up any unexpected weight gain or loss as early as possible.

If you find anything out of the ordinary during your examination, contact your pet’s veterinarian with any questions or concerns.

 

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Pain Relief for Cats

September 7, 2011

Cats are physiologically different than dogs.  Because of this, they are more prone to developing potentially life threatening side-effects from the most common class of pain relievers used in dogs –NSAIDS (non-steroidal anti-inflammatories). This makes keeping cats comfortable in the face of both acute (i.e. post-surgical or traumatic injury) and chronic (i.e. osteoarthritis) pain challenging.

When cats are hospitalized, veterinarians have a wide range of options to choose from regarding pain medication. But once a cat is scheduled to go home, the choices become more limited.  Below are a few of the more commonly used pain relievers for cats.  Many are also good options for dogs.

  • Buprenorphine – good  for acute and chronic pain but can get expensive with long-term use
  • Tramadol  – good  for acute and chronic pain
  • gabapentin – good for chronic pain
  • amantadine – good for chronic pain
  • Joint Supplements – good for chronic pain associated with osteoarthritis and possibly some other conditions
  • Metacam (meloxicam) – this is a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory that has been used in cats, but repeated use increases the risk of side effects.  It may still be an option for some individuals.

If you think your pet is in pain, talk to your veterinarian and ask if any of the aforementioned pet medications might be appropriate.

 

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A muzzle is an important restraining device for any pet that may be ill or injured.  Muzzles are designed to protect people from bite injuries when an ill or injured animal must be transported or examined.

Many types of muzzles are available and they can usually be purchased at your local pet store.  For dogs, there are basket/cage muzzles, cloth or nylon muzzles and leather muzzles.  Sometimes, a hard-sided Elizabethan collar with proper restraint can have the same effect as muzzling.  For cats, nylon face muzzles are available.

Materials around the house can be used as muzzles for most dogs with a medium to longer snout (these are typically difficult to use for cats or dogs with very short noses like pugs).   A leash, rolled gauze, sock or even shirt sleeve can be wrapped once around the mouth and tied behind the ears if a commercial muzzle is not available.

Any muzzle placed on an animal should not limit their breathing in any way.  It may prevent them from open-mouth panting for short periods of time, but should not restrict breathing.  A muzzle that completely closes the mouth should not be placed on an animal with nasal discharge of any kinds as it may restrict breathing.  If an animal appears to have difficulty breathing, the muzzle should be immediately removed. 

Muzzles should also be used with caution for any pet that may be sick enough to vomit.  If abdominal contractions, retching or other sounds of vomiting begin, the muzzle should be removed immediately because if the animal vomits, and the material (vomitus) cannot pass out of the mouth easily, it’s possible the animal may choke on the material or aspirate vomitus into the lungs.

Cats can be a little more difficult to muzzle. Commercial cat muzzles cover the face, with a small hole in front for them to breathe through and velcro connections in the back.  With a little creativity, one can create a muzzle for a cat at home.  A small plastic cup can be used as a muzzle.  Two holes must be made just under the top rim, small enough for some gauze or string to pass through and tie.  The cup is placed (widest portion first) over the cat’s face and the string tied behind the head.  This will allow the cat to see.

Regardless of the type, you should be able to remove a muzzle quickly and easily.  When used properly, muzzles can be helpful restraining devices for protecting people from an animal that is ill, aggressive or in pain.

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As summer months bring heat and extreme temperatures, it is important to be mindful of ailments that can affect our furry friends. Hot spots can be both painful and unpleasant for dogs; however, with quick and attentive at home care from owners, recovery is a few steps away. In order to provide the proper treatment owners must be mindful and attentive to their pet’s behavior as well as employ proper preventative measures to avoid occurrence and reoccurrence of hot spots. If hot spots do emerge, pet owners can employ a variety of at home treatments to ease pain and discomfort.

Hot spots are usually seen in long haired breeds of dogs as moisture that is trapped close to the skin creates bacteria akin to dermatitis as seen in their human counterparts. Observing one’s pet during the summer month for excessive itching and the emergence of red spots or sores is important to identifying canine hot spots. If your pet is scratching the same spot repeatedly, experiences pain to the touch, or has a spot that is red and irritated or releases pus, then hot spots are most likely the culprit.

If you have a long-haired dog, you might consider a short summer haircut. Regular brushing and baths can keep mats and tangles at bay, which are often the contributing cause of hot spots in long haired dogs. Allergies can also affect hot spots so be mindful of your pet’s exposure to certain outdoor plants.

If hot spots appear, proper care is necessary. First, clip all of the hair in the area surrounding the hot spot. Next, carefully wash the wound with a gentle antibacterial soap and let dry completely to avoid more exposure to moisture. Depending on the severity and quantity of hot spots, you may consider visiting your vet for some cortisone or a topical antibiotic for dogs. Medicated anti-itch powders can also provide comfort for your four legged friend.

It’s important to be mindful of the cause of your pet’s hot spots, whether it be a grooming issue or an allergic reaction. Knowing the cause can help prevent reoccurrence and make the rest of your summer itch free for your lovable pet!

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